I
am most definitely not the first and by far not the last one who will
write about the unforgettable adventure of riding a bus in Bolivia. Still, I would
like to dedicate my travel story to the Bolivian Bus (BB) because it
not only tells a story of my pain, sufferance and joy, but stands
symbolically for how this country grew on me until it conquered
me. I was reminded of these "bus rides from hell" that I will probably never forget as I read about another blogger's experience on a another bus from hell - in Mozambique. It hit me that there probably isn't a single traveler out there who does not have his or her own horror bus experience. This is mine:
Bolivia, August 2011
After one month of countless shaky rides on stony roads in
dazzling heights, I have come to dearly love the BB.
Faith
brought us together right after crossing the Argentinian border, in
the small frontier town of Villazón. About this town, all I can say
really is that the bus terminal is hopelessly crowded and that you
can only pay for your bus tickets in cash. Another fun fact therefore
is that the currency exchange offices close at 6 PM which is why I
spent one hour looking for a working (!) ATM machine with money in it
(!!!). I admit, my general mood might have been a bit clouded by
these little obstacles that I had run into; and the ten hours that I had already spent on a bus
that day probably did not help much to improve my mood either. So BB and I had a very brisk
first encounter. To be completely honest: it was loathing at first
sight. Starting with my backpack that was dragged over the dusty
ground to be then tied to the roof by cords, continuing with the over-flooding interior of the bus where I could roughly make out three
Bolivian families (meaning: 15 members per family) not including
babies, bags, blankets and food that seemed to be meant to nourish these 15-members-families for the next three months, and concluding with the observation that there was no
bathroom in the bus. These observations were only topped by my realization that I had to spend the next 15 hours on this bus. Somebody (anybody??)
help!!! Hours into this first BB ride, I noticed further troubling
details. The lacking bathroom was compensated for by a "restroom" stop every two
hours. Restroom stop means: the lights are brutally turned on in the middle of the night JUST when you managed to fall asleep next to the smelly, snoring person next to you, everybody
wakes up, everybody moves their bags, babies and food around
so they can pile out of the bus, then everybody runs to a public bathroom (meaning: the bushes), after which everybody runs back, re-arranges bags, babies and food, and
somehow gets back on their seats again. This process took each time approximately 30 minutes. Detail number two: I could not close the
window next to me. Yes, a tiny detail BUT: if you are on 12.000 feet
altitude with an outside temperature of -12 degrees Celsius (for Fahrenheit counters: it was freezing!), while the
air conditioning in the bus is turned on “cold“, it becomes a
crucial detail. (Later on, I would notice that there is not a single BB
where ALL windows work and you are always the lucky one who sits right next
to the broken one). After 16 hours of this first BB ride
(restroom-stop-delayed), I finally got out of the bus, after having spent
for sure the coldest night of my life. I could not move my fingers
nor my frozen feet. No, that was clearly not the beginning of a
wonderful friendship between the BB and me. Having arrived at my
destination, Sucre (a beautiful colonial town in Bolivia), I was soon
to become acquainted with BB`s little brothers and sisters – the
micros (city buses). Here, I have witnessed in awe how agile
Bolivians jump on and off a bus (at 50 miles per hour) with
suitcases, bags and babies in one hand while handing the bus
driver the bus fare with the other one – without falling down or
even tripping. Compared to my gringa self, out of 100 bus drives, I tripped, slipped, fell over somebody or
spread the content of my entire grocery bags on the floor at least 95 times. I also wasn't able to find out at what street corner the buses would stop. The corners seemed to change every hour and everybody obviously knew about
this while I found myself being ignored by microBB after microBB because I was standing on the wrong corner. So I
watched and learned. And when it was time for my next big BB trip, I
was prepared. After a little inquiry I had determined the best BB
company, that is, the one with the newest (or better: not completely
ancient) bus. I reserved an alley seat (furthest away from a
possibly broken window) and entered the BB with 3 T-Shirts, 2
sweaters, 1 jacket, 1 safety-jacket and just in case I brought a
hat, a scarf as well as gloves – and was immediately struck to the
seat by the heat inside the bus. This time, the bus driver had
decided to turn the heating on all the way and I could understand the
frustration of the Italian lady in front of me who could not OPEN the
window next to her. It made me think of the wisest words I have
probably heard on my Bolivia trip from a fellow traveler: „In
Bolivia you have to be prepared every day. It doesn't matter where
you go but you ALWAYS have to have the complete equipment from
bathing suite to winter jacket to umbrella.“ "Oh well", I thought,
while the Italians still tried to open the window, "then I'll just get rid of three layers of my clothes." Always be prepared!
BB, I thought, this time we are off to a
better start. This next ride took me from the mining town Potosà to
the south of Bolivia to a city called Uyuni – more or less 8 hours on the BB –
on roads without pavement (I am still wondering where those paved
roads that the travel guide talked about might be in Bolivia!). On this tour, BB already had
the next big surprise waiting for me. In Bolivia, the passengers are
asked to be at the bus terminal 30 minutes before departure so one
can – even with all the loading and re-loading of bags and bags and more bags and
babies and animals – leave on time. Of course, this never works and as usual we were already 30 minutes behind. Getting on the BB in PotosÃ,
three different buses were supposed to leave to Uyuni, as it is a very popular destination. One of these three buses (mine) never came. "Why" – is a question you learn not
to ask in Bolivia, so I just gave into the chaos and waited. The bus drivers decided to squeeze everybody into the two buses that were there and they distributed the remaining passengers between the buses according to some mathematical equation that I didn't quite understand. This announcement immediately led to
everybody frantically changing seats at least three times. One poor
French girl in her desperation started crying and hitting the bus
driver. Something had gone wrong in the seating procedure. After having changed my seat four times and after an additional hour of
waiting around, we found out that it was actually all my fault. I had gotten
on the wrong bus, and while we had to unload my backpack, heave it
on the other bus and run to my new seat, I could feel how 50
Bolivians and one French girl hated my guts. I am not sure
if the Bolivian relaxed way of life had already gotten to me but I
just found the whole situation incredibly funny and was almost
looking forward to my next BB ride – since we were almost friends
by now. Shortly after that, at the end of my travels throught
Bolivia, the time had come where I had to say goodbye to Bolivia
and to the BB. Crossing over to Chile was a trip which started one
hour late, where my luggage was moved up and down the bus at least
three times, where we changed buses twice and finally had to wait for
another BB for four hours at the Bolivian-Chilean border. And there came
Chile: a highly modern bus arrived, on time, fully equipped with a working
air conditioning, just one seat per person, and it even had a TV and blankets. Wow! I was somehow not impressed. Compared to the BB, the
Chilean bus has no personality at all!
I still get very nostalgic thinking about these adventurous bus rides in Bolivia! What about you? What's your worst experience on a bus?